What Rugby Boots Does My Child Actually Need?

Your child has started rugby and you have been handed a kit list. Somewhere on it, usually without further explanation, is the word "boots".

You then discover that rugby boots range from about fifteen pounds to well over two hundred, and nobody has told you what the difference is.

Here is what actually matters, and what does not.

Start with the pitch, not the boot

The single most important question is what surface your child plays on. Get this wrong and nothing else you do matters.

• Grass, which is most junior rugby. Moulded studs. These are the rubber or plastic studs built into the sole. They suit soft and firm natural grass and they are what the overwhelming majority of junior players need.
• Artificial pitches (3G or 4G). Many clubs now train on these. Some artificial surfaces do not permit metal studs at all. Ask your club before buying, because turning up with the wrong sole can mean not training.
• Very soft or muddy winter pitches, older age groups. Screw-in studs give more grip and can be replaced as they wear. Generally not needed below about Under 12.

If your club plays across a mix of surfaces, moulded studs are the safest single purchase.

Fit matters more than brand

I have seen more problems caused by badly fitting boots than by cheap ones.

The half size rule

Leave about a thumb's width at the toe. No more. The temptation with a growing child is to buy a size up "to get another season out of them", and I understand why. But a boot that is too big means the foot slides on every step. That produces blisters, lost grip in the sidestep, and a genuine injury risk when studs catch while the foot is moving inside the boot.

If money is tight, buy the correct size cheaply rather than the wrong size expensively.

Try them on with rugby socks

Rugby socks are considerably thicker than everyday socks. A boot fitted over thin socks will be tight on match day.

Check them late in the day

Feet swell. A boot fitted first thing in the morning can feel different by evening.

What positions actually need

You will read a lot about position specific boots. For juniors this matters far less than the internet suggests, but there is a real distinction as they get older.

Backs

Lower cut, lighter. Built for acceleration and changing direction. Less material around the ankle so the foot can move freely.

Forwards

More support around the ankle and a firmer, more stable platform for scrummaging and contact. Heavier, but that weight is doing a job.

Under about twelve

Do not worry about it. Children rotate positions constantly at that age, and they should. A good all round boot in the correct size is the right answer.

When to replace them

Sooner than most parents do. Check for:

• Outgrown. Check every couple of months during a growth spurt. Children will not reliably tell you their boots hurt.
• Worn studs. Rounded or flattened studs have lost their grip. On a wet pitch that is a slip waiting to happen.
• Split uppers or a separating sole. Once the sole starts lifting, the boot is done.
• Collapsed heel counter. If the back of the boot has gone soft and folds inward, the support has gone.

Most junior players need a new pair each season, sometimes more during a growth spurt. Budget for it rather than being caught out.

Looking after them

Boots last considerably longer with about two minutes of care after each session.

• Knock the mud off before it dries, ideally on the way to the car
• Rinse with cold water, never hot
• Stuff with newspaper and dry away from radiators — direct heat cracks the material and warps the sole
• Never put them in the washing machine
• Check screw-in studs are tight before every match

What I would tell a parent buying their first pair

Ask the coach about the surface. Buy the correct size. Buy moulded studs unless told otherwise. Spend what is comfortable and not a penny more.

Your child will remember the season, the mates and the coach. They will not remember what was on their feet.